Falling in love

I might as well admit it. I've fallen head over heels in love... with Slovenia. It was love at first sight as I walked through the streets of the capital Ljubljana for the first time, and then it became more and more intense as the days went by exploring the rest of the country. So much so that I didn't want to leave (even though my next destination was Italy). 

Slovenia, with its statues of poets on main city squares, its medieval castles, legends of dragons, forests, enormous caves, white rocky mountains that look as if they are permanently covered in snow, crystal-clear lakes and rivers, has brought out the romantic in me - something I didn't even know was possible.  

If you haven't added this central European country to the list of places you have to see before you die, do it today. You'll thank me later.

Slovenia was part of the former Yugoslavia until 1991, but it has since become part of the European Union and it has the euro as currency. More than 60% of the country consists of forests, and it borders Italy to the west, Hungary to the northeast, Croatia to the south and Austria to the north.

Since the country is fairly small, you'll be able to see most of it within a week. Ljubljana lies more or less in the middle of the country and most places are within two hours' drive from the city.

I hope these pictures portray something of the magic I've tried to explain.


If you've ever read an article about Slovenia or Ljubljana, chances are good that you've seen a photo of the dragons on this bridge. The story goes that Jason and the Argonauts from the Greek mythology killed a dragon in the wetlands around Lubljana and that's why the dragons are now guarding the bridge.

The dragon bridge is sometimes jokingly referred to as the mother-in-law bridge. There is also a legend that the dragons wag their tails when a virgin crosses the bridge, although no-one has ever seen this happen (as our tour guide said, "makes one wonder about the girls of Slovenia").

In most big cities you'll find statues of former leaders, politicians, statesmen or kings. But not on Ljubljana's main square. This statue is of France Prešeren, a man they refer to as their national poet. The lady above him represents his muse (inspiration).

On the other side of the square, there is a sculpture of his real muse standing at a window. It literally seems as if he looks at Julija Primic from across the square. She was the girl he fell desperately in love with, but could never get (apparently partly because her mother didn't approve of him). Julija was also the inspiration behind many of his poems.

It is only when you go up the tower of the Ljubljana Castle that you realise the city is completely surrounded by mountains.

Another factor that contributes to the magical feel of Slovenia is its caves. I went to the Postojna Cave, about an hour's bus drive from Ljubljana. It is a cave network of about 21 km of tunnels and huge halls filled with thousands of stalactites in different shapes and sizes. Older darker ones, and younger, white and shiny ones. The limestone sculptures at the bottom of the cave look like thousands of fingers in different shapes and sizes. Others look like mushrooms and melting vanilla ice cream also came to mind.

Being in the cave brought out the little girl in me. I was imagining little fairy-like creatures coming out at night, having parties in the caves, dancing, eating, drinking and celebrating, because they know that their home is the most magical place in the world.

Unfortunately you aren't allowed to take photos of the halls in the cave, but this is what it looks like when you enter the cave by train.

About 10 km from the Postojna Cave, you'll find the Predjama Castle. Its name describes it perfectly; Predjama literally means "in front of the cave". It is one of a few surviving castle caves in the Alpine foothills. Because access was so difficult with the castle being built against a 227-metre cliff, it offered the necessary security - the most important thing in the middle ages.

The most beautiful mountains I've ever seen are in Vršič, on the way to Bovec in the northwest of the country. At first you think the mountain tops are covered with snow, but when you get closer you realise that it's white "naked rocks" as a Slovenian girl on the bus described them.

My favourite place in Slovenia was the Soča River and its surroundings. I've never seen water as clear, rocks as white and mountains as high. Matic Leskosek, owner of the Adrenaline-Check eco camp, tried to describe his 'office' to me: "It's almost as if the beauty of this place is too much. In Slovenian we call it kitsch. Like a woman who's put on too much make-up." 

Matic grew up in Celje, the first largest city in Slovenia, but fell in love with the Soča area when he went there for the first time at the age of 16. He moved there seven years ago.

Well Matic, in this case I'll go for kitsch and lots of make-up. If I ever have the opportunity I'll definitely go back one day.

 

Lake Bled. This is the one place all Slovenians tell you you must see when in their country. And when you see it, you realise they recommend it for a reason.

A weekend in Balatonboglár

Balatonboglár is a beautiful holiday town next to Balaton Lake - the biggest lake in Hungary and Central Europe. It is also referred to as the Hungarian sea.

At first I was wondering why people would want to spend their day standing around in a (what seems to be very shallow) lake. But if you walk in deep enough the water will eventually reach your shoulders and you will be able to swim. It is probably the best way you can cool off in Hungary's scorching heat. I loved it!  
  

You cannot help but notice the giant round steel structure on a hill in Balatonboglár as soon as you enter the town. From within the structure you have a magnificent 360 degrees view of the town - on the one side Balaton lake and on the other the suburbs and the surrounding hills. 

One challenge is Hungary is that most signs are in Hungarian only. So I read up online on seeuinhungary.com that Janos Xantus originally created the globe-shaped iron structure for the International Fair in Budapest and then it was placed in Balatonboglár afterwards.

At a cost of a mere 200 Hungarian Forint (about R7) it is well worth a visit.  

Paying a 'visit' to Hungary's friendliest doctor

No, luckily I am not ill. But I had to go to the doctor over the weekend. 

After four days in Budapest, I decided to head to Balaton Lake for the weekend. When arriving at the only hostel in Balatonboglár that I could find accommodation at on the internet, it was falling apart - one could see it was a fancy hotel back in the days, but the bit of paint left was peeling of the walls, the windows were broken, there were no lockers, and every now and again someone would walk out the front door saying what a craaaaazy place it is. As Darren, the Irish Spar reporter, and I were about to go in, two other backpackers came out and jokingly (or maybe not so jokingly) told us to run.  

So we 'ran' and after a 20-minute walk with 20 kg on my back (feeling like 50 kg in the scorching heat) we came across a restaurant/guesthouse. There were no beds available, but after a five-minute conversation in a mixture of English, German, Hungarian and 'sign language', the owner phoned someone, had a minute-long conversation that I couldn't understand one word of, and then showed us to stay just where we are. He then explained that a doctor was going to pick us up in a black auto (car). Now that I think about it, it actually sounds quite dodgy.

So the next moment a man in a black bakkie came to pick us up and took us to an apartment above his doctor's rooms. And just like that we had our own holiday home - 600 meters from the lake and at a very affordable price. After sharing a room with about ten other people the rest of the week, this was pure luxury.

Dr Jankovicsné, whose answer to everything is "it's a possibility", gave us a tour of the practice he shares with his physiotherapist wife. After that I had to sit down so that we could exchange telephone numbers in case I would encounter any problems, because, according to him, anything is "a possibility". 

It's because of people like Dr Jankovicsné that I travel. Those people who are willing to help you when your own people are far away, without knowing you from a bar of soap. It is just as if they manage to restore your faith in mankind, even if just for a moment.  
 

Tasting Túró Rudi

I love food and have always been quite an adventurous eater. Before my world trip started, I decided that I am not going back to South Africa without trying a few traditional foods and drinks in each country.

Darren Gayson, Spar Ireland's reporter, and I tried Túró Rudi - quark cheese (it tastes a bit like cottage cheese) covered in a thin layer of chocolate. It looks like a chocolate bar and you'll find it in the fridge of any supermarket in Hungary.

Our verdict: he gave it a 7 and I gave it a 6 out of 10. It tastes a bit fruity (like orange flavoured chocolate), which I don't particularly like, but I think it might become as addictive as the Hungarians say it is once you get used to the taste.

What Budapest has taught me

The thing I love most about travelling is that you constantly learn. This is what Budapest has taught me in the past three days:

Never underestimate European (and especially Hungarian) summers. I should have packed those summer dresses.

Budapest was three separate cities until 1873 when Buda, Old Buda and Pest were merged to form Budapest.

Budapest is pronounced Budapescht.

The Rubik's cube was invented by a Hungarian professor, Ernő Rubik.

Hungarian is not easy, it sounds like no other language I have ever heard, and the Hungarian alphabet has 44 letters.

When Hungarians say "hello" they mean "goodbye".

Never ask for a T-shirt in a bar - you might end up with ten beers.

Want to learn some Hungarian? Watch this video.

Exploring Budapest

I love exploring cities on foot and Budapest is no exception. So I
went on a city walking tour and came across these beautiful
buildings and sights.

The St Stephen Basilica on St Istvan Square is the biggest Roman Catholic Church in Budapest. It is named after the first king of Hungary. The free afternoon city walking tour starts here.

The Hungarian parliament next to the Danube river (on the Pest side of the city). These photos were taken from the Szechenyi Chain Bridge.



The city known today as Budapest was originally made up of three cities, Buda, Old Buda and Pest. They were merged in the late 1800s. The Szechenyi Chain Bridge is one of the bridges that connect Buda and Pest.

The impressive Fisherman's Bastion is on the Buda side of the river.