Falling in love

I might as well admit it. I've fallen head over heels in love... with Slovenia. It was love at first sight as I walked through the streets of the capital Ljubljana for the first time, and then it became more and more intense as the days went by exploring the rest of the country. So much so that I didn't want to leave (even though my next destination was Italy). 

Slovenia, with its statues of poets on main city squares, its medieval castles, legends of dragons, forests, enormous caves, white rocky mountains that look as if they are permanently covered in snow, crystal-clear lakes and rivers, has brought out the romantic in me - something I didn't even know was possible.  

If you haven't added this central European country to the list of places you have to see before you die, do it today. You'll thank me later.

Slovenia was part of the former Yugoslavia until 1991, but it has since become part of the European Union and it has the euro as currency. More than 60% of the country consists of forests, and it borders Italy to the west, Hungary to the northeast, Croatia to the south and Austria to the north.

Since the country is fairly small, you'll be able to see most of it within a week. Ljubljana lies more or less in the middle of the country and most places are within two hours' drive from the city.

I hope these pictures portray something of the magic I've tried to explain.


If you've ever read an article about Slovenia or Ljubljana, chances are good that you've seen a photo of the dragons on this bridge. The story goes that Jason and the Argonauts from the Greek mythology killed a dragon in the wetlands around Lubljana and that's why the dragons are now guarding the bridge.

The dragon bridge is sometimes jokingly referred to as the mother-in-law bridge. There is also a legend that the dragons wag their tails when a virgin crosses the bridge, although no-one has ever seen this happen (as our tour guide said, "makes one wonder about the girls of Slovenia").

In most big cities you'll find statues of former leaders, politicians, statesmen or kings. But not on Ljubljana's main square. This statue is of France Prešeren, a man they refer to as their national poet. The lady above him represents his muse (inspiration).

On the other side of the square, there is a sculpture of his real muse standing at a window. It literally seems as if he looks at Julija Primic from across the square. She was the girl he fell desperately in love with, but could never get (apparently partly because her mother didn't approve of him). Julija was also the inspiration behind many of his poems.

It is only when you go up the tower of the Ljubljana Castle that you realise the city is completely surrounded by mountains.

Another factor that contributes to the magical feel of Slovenia is its caves. I went to the Postojna Cave, about an hour's bus drive from Ljubljana. It is a cave network of about 21 km of tunnels and huge halls filled with thousands of stalactites in different shapes and sizes. Older darker ones, and younger, white and shiny ones. The limestone sculptures at the bottom of the cave look like thousands of fingers in different shapes and sizes. Others look like mushrooms and melting vanilla ice cream also came to mind.

Being in the cave brought out the little girl in me. I was imagining little fairy-like creatures coming out at night, having parties in the caves, dancing, eating, drinking and celebrating, because they know that their home is the most magical place in the world.

Unfortunately you aren't allowed to take photos of the halls in the cave, but this is what it looks like when you enter the cave by train.

About 10 km from the Postojna Cave, you'll find the Predjama Castle. Its name describes it perfectly; Predjama literally means "in front of the cave". It is one of a few surviving castle caves in the Alpine foothills. Because access was so difficult with the castle being built against a 227-metre cliff, it offered the necessary security - the most important thing in the middle ages.

The most beautiful mountains I've ever seen are in Vršič, on the way to Bovec in the northwest of the country. At first you think the mountain tops are covered with snow, but when you get closer you realise that it's white "naked rocks" as a Slovenian girl on the bus described them.

My favourite place in Slovenia was the Soča River and its surroundings. I've never seen water as clear, rocks as white and mountains as high. Matic Leskosek, owner of the Adrenaline-Check eco camp, tried to describe his 'office' to me: "It's almost as if the beauty of this place is too much. In Slovenian we call it kitsch. Like a woman who's put on too much make-up." 

Matic grew up in Celje, the first largest city in Slovenia, but fell in love with the Soča area when he went there for the first time at the age of 16. He moved there seven years ago.

Well Matic, in this case I'll go for kitsch and lots of make-up. If I ever have the opportunity I'll definitely go back one day.

 

Lake Bled. This is the one place all Slovenians tell you you must see when in their country. And when you see it, you realise they recommend it for a reason.